Catastrophic Avalanche Strikes High-Altitude Expedition

A 10-member international mountaineering expedition led by celebrated Nepali climber Nirmal Purja has been struck by a catastrophic avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan, with rescuers recovering four bodies as search efforts continue for the remaining six climbers.

The avalanche hit the team on Thursday at approximately midday local time on the 8,047-meter (26,400-foot) peak in the Karakoram range . According to the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the climbers were making their summit push when the avalanche struck at an altitude of around 7,000 meters . Communication with the team was lost immediately following the incident .

The expedition included five Nepali climbers, Pakistani mountaineer Sohail Sakhi, Omani climber Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy, American climber Mallory Geis, a Chinese climber identified as Wang Zhong, and one other foreign national, according to alpine club officials .

Race Against Time in Treacherous Conditions

Search and rescue operations have been severely hampered by adverse weather conditions, including heavy cloud cover and strong winds, which have limited helicopter flights . Pakistan Army Aviation has deployed two helicopters from Skardu to conduct aerial reconnaissance and transport rescue personnel to high-altitude camps .

"The team has been out of communication since Thursday," said Karrar Haidri, vice president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan . Officials stated that search operations continued until Friday evening and would resume on Saturday morning, weather permitting .

On Friday, rescuers located four bodies, according to senior government officials who spoke on condition of anonymity . Two of the deceased have been identified as Omani climber Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy and Nepali climber Pur Bahadur Gurung, also known as Yukta . The identities of the other two recovered bodies have not yet been officially confirmed .

GPS tracking data from some of the missing climbers indicated the avalanche swept the group approximately 1,000 meters downhill, leaving them trapped in treacherous terrain . The Alpine Club of Pakistan reported seeing movement from Purja's GPS tracker, offering a narrow window of hope, though one tracker was later found smashed, suggesting the movement may have been a glitch .

The Missing Expedition Members

The multinational climbing team comprised several experienced mountaineers:

Nirmal Purja (43) – Expedition leader. The Nepal-born former British Gurkha and Special Boat Service member is internationally renowned for climbing all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks in a record 189 days in 2019, a feat featured in the Netflix documentary "14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible" . He was in Pakistan working on his "Hat-Trick Project," aiming to climb all 14 peaks and the Seven Summits three times .

Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) – A certified International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations guide who was close to completing the 14 peaks challenge . His body was confirmed recovered by the Alpine Club of Pakistan.

Kili Pemba Sherpa – A veteran guide who has summited Everest 15 times and was part of the historic 2021 K2 winter expedition alongside Purja . He also guided double amputee Xia Boyu to the Everest summit in 2018 .

Mallory Geis – A 39-year-old from San Antonio, Texas, who closed her Pilates studio earlier this year to pursue mountaineering . This was to be her first attempt at an 8,000-meter peak in Pakistan .

Sohail Sakhi – A Pakistani geographer and high-altitude photographer who served as a guide for Moving Mountains, the Pakistan-based travel company organizing the expedition. This was expected to be his final climb .

Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy – An Omani climber whose body was among the recovered .

Wang Zhong – A Chinese climber .

The missing team also includes three Sherpa guides from Seven Summit Treks, according to company director Chhang Dawa Sherpa .

International Response and Diplomatic Involvement

The incident has drawn international attention, with several governments monitoring the situation closely. The Nepalese Ministry of Foreign Affairs confirmed that six of the 10 climbers were Nepali nationals and stated that Pakistan had assured them all available resources would be mobilized for the search operation .

China's Foreign Ministry spokesperson Mao Ning said Beijing was working to verify whether any Chinese nationals were among the missing and offered to provide assistance to Pakistani authorities if needed .

Gilgit-Baltistan Chief Minister Amjad Hussain has directed all relevant departments to remain on high alert and expedite the rescue operation in coordination with the Pakistan Army .

Broad Peak's Perilous Reputation

Broad Peak, the world's 12th-highest mountain, lies in Pakistan's Karakoram range, home to five of the world's 14 peaks above 8,000 meters . The mountain is regarded as one of the more challenging expeditions, with a history of fatal accidents . One of its deadliest years was 2013, when at least six fatalities were recorded .

Accidents are common during climbing expeditions in northern Pakistan because of avalanches and rapidly changing weather conditions . The 2026 climbing season has now been marked by this tragedy, as rescue teams continue their efforts to locate the remaining six climbers. With harsh conditions persisting, the Alpine Club of Pakistan has expressed concern about the chances of survival after more than 24 hours, though officials remain hopeful for "miracles" .