If your garage door opener is not working but has power, indicated by lights on opener unit and wall console being on, problem is likely not power but safety sensors, logic board, mechanical binding, or remote issues that prevent operation despite power. First, check if wall button works, as if wall button works but remote doesn't, remote battery dead, remote not programmed, or lock mode engaged on wall console that disables remotes, indicated by blinking light, so press and hold lock button to unlock and replace battery and reprogram remote via Learn button. If neither wall button nor remote works but opener has power, check safety sensors near floor, as dirty or misaligned sensors with blinking LEDs can prevent closing and sometimes opening, so clean lenses and align until solid. Check if manual lock on door track engaged physically preventing movement. Listen for motor humming, as humming with no movement suggests trolley disconnected from emergency release cord pulled, stripped drive gear, or door binding due to broken torsion spring or off-track rollers, so try opening manually after pulling emergency release; if door very heavy or won't lift, spring broken requiring professional replacement costing 200 to 400 dollars. Travel limits set incorrectly can cause opener to think door already open or closed. Logic board failure, RPM sensor failure, or force settings too low can cause opener to have power but not operate. Unplug opener 30 seconds to reset board. If opener is old, gear and sprocket may be worn.
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